On 8 November 2024, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, will present Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999. This thematic auction, held at the Hotel President in Geneva, will feature iconic timepieces from the 1980s and 1990s. The event celebrates the resurgence of mechanical horology in a time when quartz watches dominated the market. Key lots will include rare creations by Rolex, F.P. Journe, Philippe Dufour, and Derek Pratt.
The Revival of Mechanical Watchmaking
The 1980s and 1990s were transformative decades for the luxury watch industry, with a renewed focus on mechanical ingenuity. As quartz watches threatened the craft, watchmakers responded with increasingly innovative designs and complications, marking the resurgence of traditional horology. Phillips’ Reloaded auction highlights this pivotal period, offering collectors an opportunity to acquire pieces that helped redefine the industry.
Alexandre Ghotbi, Head of Watches, Europe & Middle East, and Tiffany To, Head of Sale, emphasized the significance of the era, stating: “The 1980s and 1990s were a period of intense change and experimentation. With the arrival of quartz watches, mechanical horology was at a crossroads—change or die—but the watchmaking industry showed its resilience and innovative spirit.” They added, “The 1980s-1990s were one of the most creative periods for watchmaking, with the rise of independent watchmakers and the birth of multi-complication wristwatches.”
Rolex Daytona ‘Rainbow’ Ref. 16599
A standout in the auction is the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ‘Rainbow’ ref. 16599 in white gold. Created in the 1990s as a one-off masterpiece, this watch features a bezel set with degradé-hued sapphires. With an estimated sale price in excess of CHF 3 million, this piece is among the rarest and most visually striking Rolex timepieces.
F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Egalité 15/93
The auction will also feature the Tourbillon Souverain à Remontoir d’Egalité, F.P. Journe’s first wristwatch to be sold. Estimated at over CHF 2 million, this 1999 piece from the subscription series represents an early milestone in Journe’s career, featuring a gold movement and a solid caseback.
Philippe Dufour Duality
Another highlight is the Philippe Dufour Duality, a previously unknown 10th piece from this renowned series. Estimated between CHF 800,000 and CHF 1.6 million, the Duality was the first wristwatch to feature a double escapement, showcasing Dufour’s technical mastery in horology.
Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch for Urban Jürgensen
On 8 November 2024, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, will present Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999. This thematic auction, held at the Hotel President in Geneva, will feature iconic timepieces from the 1980s and 1990s. The event celebrates the resurgence of mechanical horology in a time when quartz watches dominated the market. Key lots will include rare creations by Rolex, F.P. Journe, Philippe Dufour, and Derek Pratt.
Event Details
- Auction Date: 8 November 2024, 2pm CET
- Viewing Dates: 6-8 November 2024, Hotel President, Geneva
Global Auction Tour
Key auction pieces will be on display across the globe:
- Geneva Watch Days: 29 August – 2 September 2024
- New York: 25-27 September 2024
- Dubai: 10-12 October 2024
- Singapore: 17-20 October 2024
- London: 21-23 October 2024
- Hong Kong: 23-25 October 2024
Conclusion
Phillips’ Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking auction celebrates the most influential timepieces from the 1980s and 1990s. With rare models from independent and established brands, collectors will have the chance to bid on some of the era’s most important horological achievements.
For more details, visit Phillips’ official website.
