Breitling has elevated its recent partnerships with Deus Ex Machina and Triumph Motorcycles by incorporating the impressive Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01.
At the Wheels & Waves surf-and-motorcycle festival in Biarritz, France, Breitling unveiled its latest additions to the Top Time collection. This “unconventional chronograph,” originally introduced in the 1960s, initially paid homage to the carefree spirit of its era through bold design. Today, this racing chronograph maintains its distinctive character while focusing on motorcycles, vintage cars, and adventures on the open road.
These new releases build upon Breitling’s previous successful collaborations with Deus Ex Machina and Triumph Motorcycles, introducing the remarkable Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01 to take them to the next level.
“These co-branded Top Time watches are for those who are as into the mechanics of their watch as they are the mechanics of their motorcycle,” says Breitling CEO Georges Kern. “The Breitling Caliber 01 is a finely tuned engine, created with all the precision and attention to detail that goes into building the perfect bike.”
Back, in Black: The Breitling Top Time Deus
Following the success of two previously sold-out limited editions, Breitling and the Australian custom motorcycle and surf brand, Deus Ex Machina, have collaborated once again on a third installment of the Top Time Deus series, which is now set to become a permanent part of Breitling’s core collection.
The latest model takes a monochromatic approach, departing from the vibrant colors of its predecessors. It features a black dial complemented by white triple-register subdials and a tachymeter scale. This timepiece can be paired with either a black calfskin leather strap inspired by racing aesthetics or a mesh metal bracelet. The touches of color come from accents of red on the outer dial and notably on the distinctive lightning bolt-shaped chronograph hand, which remains consistent with the previous two Top Time Deus editions.
Under the hood, this watch is powered by the exceptional Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, and its transparent sapphire crystal caseback proudly displays a central red Deus logo.
Fire and Ice: The Breitling Top Time Triumph
In 2022, Breitling initiated a collaboration with the renowned British heritage motorcycle manufacturer, Triumph. This partnership began with the launch of the Breitling Speed Twin Limited Edition motorcycle and a pair of Top Time Triumph watches, marking the beginning of their joint venture. One of these watches was limited to 270 numbered pieces, exclusively available to motorcycle owners, while the other was accessible to enthusiasts and fans alike.
Both watch models showcased a distinctive ice-blue dial, meticulously matched in color to the 1951 Triumph Thunderbird 6T and a rare blue-dialed Breitling Top Time Ref. 815 from the 1970s.
This year, the Top Time Triumph, which has now become a permanent part of Breitling’s core collection, has received a high-end upgrade, featuring the impressive Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01. The refined inner workings of this movement are now visible through a newly designed open caseback. The dial maintains a twin-register layout with a tachymeter scale for measuring speed, along with the Breitling and Triumph logos positioned at 12 and 6 o’clock. The striking ice blue color of the dial can be paired with either a black calfskin leather strap inspired by racing aesthetics or a mesh metal bracelet.
Connoisseurs will notice several nods to vintage Breitling, including a retro logo, mushroom-shaped chronograph pushers, and a “Zorro” dial pattern. The bowtie motif, originally introduced on Top Time watches in the 1960s and aptly named after the iconic swashbuckler’s mask, has been subtly incorporated using a metal brushing technique that becomes visible under specific lighting conditions.
The Chronograph Perfected: Breitling’s Manufacture Caliber 01
If you’ve been following the Top Time narrative, you may recall that back in March, Breitling reintroduced its Top Time Classic Cars collection, now equipped with the Breitling Caliber 01. Today, the Top Time Triumph and Deus editions are also receiving the Breitling 01 treatment. So, what sets this movement apart as exceptional?
The Breitling Caliber 01, initially introduced in 2009, stands as Breitling’s flagship in-house caliber, meticulously designed from the ground up, incorporating more than a century of watchmaking expertise. Over time, it has evolved into the industry’s gold standard for chronograph movements, excelling in both functionality and aesthetics. The Caliber 01 boasts a column-wheel system, a hallmark of high-end mechanical chronograph movements, and a vertical clutch that ensures precise and smooth operation. With a power reserve of approximately 70 hours (compared to the 38 to 48 hours of non-manufacture movements), it offers extended endurance. Its ingenious modular design allows for straightforward cleaning and maintenance, granting access to specific caliber components without requiring a full disassembly.
Breitling’s confidence in the quality of its in-house movements is exemplified by its 5-year warranty (contrasted with the 2-year warranty for non-manufacture movements). This assurance arises from rigorous quality control procedures. COSC certification for accuracy alone demands a 10-month production timeline and an exhaustive battery of 1,000 tests. Beyond this, Breitling subjects its manufacture movements to an arduous 16-year accelerated aging test. This includes demanding shock tests (approximately 60,000 shocks at 500 g), extensive crown testing (over 100,000 crown winds), oscillating weight winding (3,456,000 weight turns), and chronograph pusher testing (approximately 5,840 start-stop-reset engagements). Only when a Breitling watch has passed its tests can it leave the Chronometrie. “The integration of the Breitling Caliber 01 into the Top Time range shows the emphasis we’re putting on our in-house craftsmanship and expertise,” says Kern. “So stay tuned for future developments from the Breitling Chronometrie. Because this is just the beginning.”