The ingenious design of the Reverso’s swiveling case was initially conceived to safeguard the watch dial and glass during polo matches. However, shortly after its debut in 1931, the Reverso transcended its sporting origins, embraced by tastemakers across diverse lifestyles. The blank metal case back emerged as an ideal canvas for artistic expression, offering boundless potential to create exceptionally beautiful timepieces.
In 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre adds a new chapter to this tale of craftsmanship with the Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon.’ Crafted to coincide with the Chinese New Year, this timepiece pays homage to the Year of the Dragon and showcases the talents of master enamellers and engravers in the Métiers Rares™ atelier of Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Turning the watch case reveals a majestic dragon surrounded by golden clouds, engraved into the pink gold case metal. The dragon appears to leap out from the glossy black Grand Feu enamel background, with polished surfaces, finely detailed scales highlighted in black rhodium, and a contrasting sandblasted texture of the clouds enhancing the illusion of movement and power.
To achieve a sense of volume and depth, the master engraver employed the modelled engraving technique, requiring precision and dexterity. Adding to the challenge, the engraving began on a surface already coated with Grand Feu enamel, demanding unprecedented accuracy to avoid damaging the pristine enamel. Using 10 differently sized chisels over 80 hours, the master engraver meticulously sculpted the metal, creating a masterpiece.
The Reverso Tribute Enamel’s dial features the same opaque black Grand Feu enamel as the case-back. The elegant simplicity of the dial, adorned with faceted appliqué hour-markers, chemin de fer minutes track, and Dauphine hands, showcases the beauty of the glowing black background.
Despite the apparent simplicity, the outcome of the Grand Feu enameling process is unpredictable. Achieving the depth and richness of black requires five or six layers of enamel, with each layer subjected to firing and cooling, totaling 24 working hours (16 for the case-back and eight for the dial) over several days. A half-day of polishing follows to achieve a perfect, uniform shine.
The perfect match in color and purity between the two surfaces attests to the mastery acquired through years of experience. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house enameling atelier, a rarity among watch manufactures, preserves and advances this ancient craft. The Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Dragon,’ created exclusively on order to celebrate the Chinese Zodiac Year, stands as a testament to La Grande Maison’s vision, where artistic crafts harmonize seamlessly with the technical expertise of the Manufacture’s watchmakers.
For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.