Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils New Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ Series
Iconic for its distinctive swiveling rectangular case, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso stands as a beacon in the world of watchmaking, designed to be worn with either side facing outward. In the monoface models, the blank pink gold 750/1000 (18 carats) case-back serves as a canvas for artistic expression, inviting the artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares™ atelier to showcase their exceptional skills in decorative crafts and jewelry techniques.
In 2021, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the sparkling Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ series, merging the elements of fine watchmaking, artistic crafts, and high jewelry. For 2024, La Grande Maison enriches the collection with three new models in pink gold, bringing fresh color, sophistication, and glamour. Limited to just 10 pieces each, these exquisite timepieces blend the artistic crafts of enameling, gold-leaf paillonnage, and gem-setting.
Art Deco Inspiration Through Vivid Colors
Drawing inspiration from the original 1931 Reverso design, created at the height of the Art Deco period, the new pieces celebrate the vibrant spirit of Tropical Art Deco. This style, characterized by the sleek lines of Streamline Modern architecture set against lush vegetation and vividly colored flowers, enjoyed its heyday in the 1930s. Examples of this exuberant style still flourish in cities from Singapore to Cuba to Mumbai, and most famously, Miami.
A Dance of Artistry and Craftsmanship
The Reverso One dial’s restrained elegance perfectly complements the rich and colorful case decorations. Featuring a white mother-of-pearl background, gold brackets define the dial’s four corners, creating a frame for the numerals in the signature Reverso One font. Grain-set diamonds adorn the gadroons and lugs, while the winding crown is embellished with a reverse-set diamond.
The new designs allow the Métiers Rares™ atelier artisans to fully express their artistry and diverse skills. The floral designs wrap seamlessly around the case sides, from the back to the bezel, involving complex curves and angles that challenge the artisans’ skills.
Mastering Champlevé Enameling and Paillonnage
Champlevé, one of the oldest enameling techniques, involves hollowing out sections of the flat metal case surface to create an outline of the desired motif. The enameler then paints the details and tonal nuances into the remaining wells with enamel, layer by layer. Research into the colors took over 50 hours before work could begin, as the enameler needs to predict how enamel pigments will react at high temperatures.
These new ‘Precious Flowers’ designs elevate enameling by combining it with paillonnage. Tiny pieces of 24-carat gold leaf are cut to the exact shape and size of the pattern, then fixed into place before the colored enamel is applied. The cases require ten or more firings to build the color’s intensity and depth. Each firing, necessary for Grand Feu enameling, involves risks such as bubbling, cracking, burning, shrinking, or warping.
The gem-setting begins only after the enamel work is completed, adding to the task’s delicacy and complexity. Combining enameling and gem-setting requires balancing the hardening effect of firing with the soft metal needed for gem-setting.
Celebrating Tropical Flowers with Three New Models
Birds of Paradise symbolizes freedom and joy, capturing the flower’s brilliant colors and geometric shape with Grand Feu champlevé enameling. The process involves applying 19 different enamel colors over 60 hours, complemented by snow-set diamonds. This model is set with approximately 331 diamonds totaling 1.64 carats and features a green alligator leather strap.
Hibiscus Enamel reinterprets the hibiscus flower, symbolizing beauty and wisdom, with colors reminiscent of a sun-kissed lagoon. For the first time on a Métiers Rares™ Reverso One, the entire background is Grand Feu enamel, using 12 colors and nine layers. This piece includes approximately 157 diamonds totaling 1.25 carats and a custom-dyed blue alligator leather strap.
Hibiscus Diamonds combines enameling, paillonnage, and diamond-setting, featuring blue flowers created through 30 hours of Grand Feu champlevé enameling. With a background of snow-set diamonds and 523 diamonds totaling 2.02 carats, this model requires 150 hours of Métiers Rares™ craftsmanship.
These new Reverso One ‘Precious Flowers’ timepieces, fitted with the hand-wound Calibre 846, are limited to just 10 pieces each. Each watch is subtly different, reflecting the artisans’ passion, personality, and remarkable skill.
For more information, please visit Jaeger-LeCoultre.com.