In the intricate and highly competitive world of haute horlogerie, the pursuit of the thinnest wristwatch has captivated watchmakers for generations. This challenge has led to the creation of some of the most remarkable timepieces in history, each pushing the boundaries of what is technically possible. In 2024, this ongoing pursuit welcomes a new and formidable contender: ThinKing by Konstantin Chaykin. This ultra-thin mechanical wristwatch, measuring an astonishing 1.65 mm in thickness, not only demonstrates Chaykin’s technical brilliance but also adds a new chapter to his acclaimed Wristmons collection. The ThinKing is a testament to the fusion of avant-garde design and groundbreaking engineering, a piece that will undoubtedly captivate the attention of seasoned collectors and horological connoisseurs.
The Genesis of ThinKing: A Journey Rooted in Horological History
Konstantin Chaykin’s journey to creating the ThinKing is as fascinating as the watch itself. Nearly two decades ago, Chaykin encountered a mid-19th-century Bagnolet pocket watch movement, a marvel of its time, which measured just about one millimeter in thickness. This encounter left a lasting impression on the then-budding watchmaker, sparking an enduring curiosity about the possibilities of ultra-thin horology. However, it wasn’t until 2023, when a client challenged him to create an ultra-thin wristwatch, that Chaykin revisited this fascination with renewed vigor.
The challenge set the stage for what would become one of Chaykin’s most ambitious projects. The task was not merely to create a thin watch but to engineer a timepiece that could stand shoulder to shoulder with the most celebrated ultra-thin watches in history while bringing something uniquely Chaykin to the table.
Technical Mastery: Innovations in Miniaturization
At the heart of the ThinKing is a series of innovative solutions that represent the pinnacle of modern watchmaking. The movement, which forms the core of any mechanical watch, was designed with an uncompromising focus on reducing thickness without sacrificing performance or durability. Chaykin approached this challenge by designing the movement on just two levels, an achievement that required a complete rethinking of traditional watchmaking principles.
One of the most remarkable features of the ThinKing is its ultra-thin mainspring barrel. Unlike conventional designs, Chaykin eliminated the need for a ratchet wheel and cover, integrating the winding mechanism directly into the barrel-arbor. This ingenious design not only reduced the thickness but also maintained a power reserve of 32 hours, a significant accomplishment for a watch of such slender proportions. The attention to detail in the design of the mainspring, which was meticulously ground to achieve the desired thickness, further exemplifies Chaykin’s commitment to precision.
Complementing the innovative barrel is the double balance wheel system, a feature that sets the ThinKing apart from its contemporaries. While double balances have been used before, never have they been employed in an ultra-thin watch with such effectiveness. This system allows for the distribution of mechanical stress across two levels, maintaining the integrity of the timekeeping mechanism while minimizing the overall thickness. The result is a movement that is as reliable as it is revolutionary.
Design Philosophy: The Emotional Resonance of the Wristmon
The ThinKing is not merely an exercise in technical prowess; it also embodies Chaykin’s unique design philosophy. As a member of the Wristmons collection, the ThinKing carries the signature aesthetic that has made these watches so beloved among collectors. The watch features two separate dials for the hour and minute displays, which are reminiscent of the eyes of a character. This design choice is not just about aesthetics; it also serves a practical purpose by minimizing the area of the sapphire crystals, which are a mere 0.35 mm thick.
In the ThinKing, the playful “smile” typically found in Wristmons, represented by the moonphase in the original Joker watch, is replaced by the brand logo, engraved on the top cover of the watch. This subtle yet significant change highlights Chaykin’s ability to blend whimsy with sophistication, creating a timepiece that is as emotionally engaging as it is technically impressive.
The PalanKing Case: A Symbiotic Relationship of Form and Function
One of the challenges of ultra-thin watches is ensuring their practicality and durability in everyday wear. Chaykin addressed this challenge with the development of the PalanKing—an external carrier case that serves both protective and functional purposes. This case, which is just 5.4 mm thick, includes an automatic winding system that engages with the ThinKing when placed inside, allowing the watch to be wound while being worn. This innovative solution draws inspiration from the “symbiotic” watch and clock concept by Abraham-Louis Breguet but reimagines it for modern wristwatch wearers.
The PalanKing case also addresses the issue of rigidity, a critical factor for the longevity of ultra-thin watches. Chaykin opted for a special stainless steel with high rigidity as the primary material for the watch case. This choice, combined with a labyrinthine internal structure and a minimum caseback thickness of just 0.3 mm, ensures that the ThinKing can withstand the stresses of daily use without compromising its ultra-thin profile.
In addition to the technical benefits, the PalanKing case enhances the visual appeal of the ThinKing. The watch, when housed in the PalanKing, remains a striking piece of horology, preserving its slender form while adding an extra layer of protection. The case design also includes a specially crafted strap with flexible titanium supports and elastic inserts, which further protect the watch by absorbing external forces that could otherwise damage the delicate movement.
The Art of Material Selection: A Balance of Strength and Precision
The choice of materials plays a crucial role in the construction of any ultra-thin watch, and the ThinKing is no exception. Chaykin’s decision to use a specially formulated stainless steel for the case reflects his deep understanding of the balance between strength and precision. This material not only provides the necessary rigidity but also minimizes the risk of accidental damage, such as bending, which can be catastrophic for ultra-thin timepieces.
The process of material selection was meticulous, involving extensive testing and simulations to ensure that the final product met Chaykin’s exacting standards. The first prototype, known as ThinKing Prototype 1, was crafted from annealed brass, a material chosen for its stability and ease of machining. This prototype allowed Chaykin to physically test the design and make adjustments as needed. The second prototype, ThinKing Prototype 2, was constructed from the final material, the special stainless steel, bringing the project closer to its ultimate realization.
Beyond Thin: The Lightness of Being
In addition to being ultra-thin, the ThinKing is also remarkably light. Weighing just 13.3 grams without the strap, it ranks among the lightest mechanical watches in the world. This achievement was not a primary goal of the project but rather a fortunate byproduct of the design and material choices. The lightness of the ThinKing adds to its comfort on the wrist, making it an ideal daily wear for those who appreciate the subtleties of high-end watchmaking.
The Road Ahead: The Future of ThinKing
As of 2024, the ThinKing remains in the prototype stage, with further refinements planned before it enters series production. The ThinKing Prototype 2 will make its public debut at the Geneva Watch Days exhibition, held from August 29 to September 2, 2024. This event marks a significant milestone for the project, offering collectors and enthusiasts a first glimpse of what could become one of the most celebrated ultra-thin watches of its time.
However, Chaykin himself acknowledges that the journey is far from over. While the ThinKing represents a monumental achievement, there are still aspects of the design that he wishes to refine. These potential improvements, combined with the innovative spirit that has defined Chaykin’s career, suggest that the ThinKing may evolve even further before it reaches the wrists of collectors worldwide.
