THE ARMORIAL POCKET WATCH
The inception of this project finds its roots in a journey embarked upon by Guido Terreni in the northern expanse of Italy—a voyage not only to delve into Michel Parmigiani’s heritage but also to bask in the architectural marvels of the region. Among the places explored was the Palazzo Te in Mantua, strategically positioned at the intersection of Milan, Genoa, and Venice. This Renaissance-era royal palace, adorned with meticulous craftsmanship of its time, left an enduring impression. The Hall of Giants within the Palazzo Te, in particular, echoed with the passions of Michel Parmigiani, embracing elements such as the Renaissance, architecture, nature, and the Golden ratio. Hence, it felt intuitive to infuse life into these influences, transcending their original two-dimensional forms. In crafting the exceptional pocket watch case, each detail underwent a deliberate reimagination in a three-dimensional reinterpretation.
The timepiece itself is an authentic masterpiece, meticulously fashioned with care and precision. Michel Parmigiani, with a deep appreciation for exceptional craftsmanship, surrounded himself with artisans traditionally known as “Mains d’Or” or “Golden Hands” in the industry. These skilled “Maitre” craftsmen dedicated their expertise to bring L’Armoriale to life. Each artisan specialized in distinct crafts, including the intricate engraving of the case, the delicate enamel work on the backcase, the meticulous crafting of the chain, and more.
THE ARMORIAL: A LINK ACROSS THE AGES
At the heart of this pocket watch lies a mechanical movement dating back to 1890, signed A. Golay Leresche & Fils in Geneva, showcasing a chronograph minute repeater. It stands as a genuine piece of history, a testament to the essence of Renaissance architecture of the time. Michel Parmigiani salvaged this movement from obscurity, preserving it from an era when mechanical movement faced extinction due to the rise of quartz movements.
In 1985, Michel Parmigiani restored the movement and added a perpetual calendar developed in his Ateliers PMAT (Parmigiani Fleurier Mesure et Art du Temps). Today, the movement features a chronograph, a minute repeater, and a perpetual calendar with a moon phase against an aventurine sky and hand-hammered moons in white gold. The L’Armoriale movement embodies the epitome of luxury watchmaking—an exquisite fusion of history and innovation, serving as an authentic bridge between centuries.
The L’Armoriale movement beats at a frequency of 2.5 Hz, equivalent to 18,000 vibrations per hour, providing a leisurely and refined experience for watch enthusiasts. Additionally, it features a minute repeater, enabling on-demand striking of hours, quarters, and minutes, coupled with a central seconds chronograph. This exceptional caliber seamlessly integrates all the fundamental functions and complexities inherent in the art of watchmaking, standing as a timepiece of extraordinary intricacy and elegance. Every aspect, from gears to meticulously engraved and polished bridges, attests to the exceptional mastery of Parmigiani Fleurier. In essence, the L’Armoriale movement transcends the realm of a mere mechanical watch; it stands as a heritage, a meticulously restored and enhanced masterpiece encapsulating the soul and excellence of Parmigiani Fleurier. Every component, every detail, and every complication narrates a captivating story.
THE ARMORIAL: HOROLOGICAL HARMONY: AN ODE TO ART, TECHNICITY, AND ELEGANCE
The sumptuous dial, with a mordant brown hue delicately engraved in the “mezzo vibrato” theme, embodies a fusion of craftsmanship, art, and technical prowess. The engraved ring encircling the dial elegantly reflects the almond motifs present on the case and lugs. The white gold counters, also intricately engraved and adorned with delicate rings, add a subtle touch to the overall composition.
THE ARMORIAL MASTER ENAMELLER VANESSA LECCI
L’Armoriale by Parmigiani Fleurier, a horological masterpiece, owes much of its allure to the exquisite artistry of the Master Enameller Vanessa Lecci. With her meticulous craftsmanship and extensive experience in enameling, every facet of this watch becomes a timeless work of art.
The 18-carat white gold case back of L’Armoriale stands as a grand feu enamel masterpiece. Drawing inspiration from the floors of Mantua’s Palazzo Te, the motifs are intricately engraved, with each cavity filled using colored translucent enamel. The interplay of light between the engraved structure and the depth and transparency of the enamel yields subtle nuances and a distinctive texture, bestowing the case with captivating visual depth.
The enamel shades adorning the back of L’Armoriale are meticulously chosen from a thoughtfully curated palette, featuring hues of yellow, red, and translucent brown. Inspired by the coat of arms of the Gonzaga family, owners of Palazzo Te, these colors contribute an additional layer of artistic richness to the watch. Each shade is perfectly balanced, creating a harmonious and visually captivating effect.
Grand feu enameling is an intricate art, demanding exceptional mastery of temperatures and techniques. The Enameller Master has applied an expertise to elevate the background from traditional craftsmanship to a true contemporary masterpiece. In short, the Master Enameller’s work on the Parmigiani Fleurier Armoriale stands as a remarkable artistic achievement. The proficiency in grand feu enameling has given rise to a background of extraordinary beauty, talent, and dedication to preserving this ancient art. The Armoriale is a horological work of art, embodying a perfect harmony between watchmaking tradition and contemporary artistic expression.
THE ARMORIAL MASTER CHAINMAKER LAURENT JOLLIET
The chain on L’Armoriale pocket watch stands out as a remarkable creation by the master chain-maker Laurent Jolliet. Notably, Laurent Jolliet holds the distinction of being one of the last practitioners of his craft, infusing exceptional creation with rare authenticity.
Collaborating closely with the Parmigiani Fleurier team, Laurent Jolliet ensured that the chain was in perfect harmony with the overall design of L’Armoriale. The chain’s motif mirrors the hand-engraved patterns on the watch case, as well as on the latch, establishing an elegant aesthetic continuity. The watch chain is shaped by hand with meticulous precision. Each individual link of the chain has been carefully designed to ensure maximum flexibility and durability while upholding Parmigiani Fleurier’s distinctive aesthetic and style.
The craftsman’s mastery is evident in the creation of an extraordinarily fine and delicate chain that gracefully follows the flow of gravity, adding an element of great elegance to the pocket watch.
His work stands as a testament to Parmigiani Fleurier’s unwavering commitment to authentic art and the preservation of rare crafts. As one of the last remaining chain-makers in his profession, his contribution imparts a unique and invaluable aspect to the L’Armoriale timepiece.
THE ARMORIAL MASTER ENGRAVER EDDY JACQUET & CHRISTOPHE BLANDENIER
At the heart of L’Armoriale, a creation designed to commemorate Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, resides a horological masterpiece of extraordinary complexity and beauty. A significant contributor to its splendid aesthetic lies in the engraving by master engravers Eddy Jaquet and Christophe Blandenier, internationally acclaimed artists renowned for their world-class talent and expertise.
The 18-carat white gold case of the L’Armoriale features the Maison’s distinctive motifs, consistently present in other unique creations crafted annually for Michel Parmigiani’s birthday. Christophe Blandernier’s contribution to this case is nothing short of an artistic triumph. The pattern, which runs across the handles, creates a fascinating visual effect of depth and texture. Every detail of this motif has been meticulously engraved by hand, showcasing Christophe Blandernier’s undeniable mastery of the art of engraving.
The caseband itself stands as a masterpiece of engraving, embellished with palmettes chiseled into the body of the precious gold, and while polished fluting adds an additional layer of sophistication. Every facet of the case band reflects exquisite precision, a testament to the meticulous attention to detail that Christophe Blandenier devotes to every stage of his work.
The master’s touch extends even to the dial of L’Armoriale, where a stylized “Florentine” motif enhances the overall refinement of the watch. Executed with exquisite precision, each element of this decoration contributes to a dial of timeless beauty. The attention to detail doesn’t waver, extending to the latch that activates the minute repeater. Treated with the same meticulousness as the case middle, it boasts fine engravings and impeccable details. The watch’s pendant and crown also undergo refined engraving, adding an overarching touch of elegance.
Inspired by a pocket watch featuring Jaquemarts and an automaton scene titled “Moses Striking the Rock,” the engraving on the L’Armoriale case introduces an ornamental motif that imparts richness and depth to the piece, elevating it to a remarkable artistic dimension.
For more information, please visit Parmigiani.CH.