The Pelagos FXD is a tribute to decades of TUDOR watches gracing the wrists of US Navy divers. This modern “Milsub” timepiece boasts fixed strap bars, a titanium case, a high-performance Manufacture Calibre, and a unidirectional rotating bezel for elapsed-time measurement.
As early as the mid-1950s, TUDOR diving watches underwent rigorous testing and evaluation by various units within the US Navy. By 1958, they were officially adopted and procured for distribution among divers in different Navy units. The Pelagos FXD model serves as a spiritual successor to those watches. The nomenclature hints at its origin, with “FXD” representing the robust fixed strap bars on the case. This model represents a contemporary, high-performance, and rugged interpretation of the iconic “Milsub” (Military Submariner) watches of the past. It visually aligns with the late 1960s TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016 and incorporates features derived from US military diving watch specifications, including fixed spring bars, as well as design elements inspired by earlier issued TUDOR Submariners, such as the pointed crown-guards typically found on early models.
Key Highlights:
- A 42mm satin-brushed titanium case with fixed strap bars, meticulously machined from a single block of titanium.
- A unidirectional rotatable bezel in titanium with a ceramic insert, featuring a 60-minute graduation filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material.
- A matte black dial adorned with applied hour markers filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material.
- The presence of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), boasting a silicon hairspring and a remarkable 70-hour power reserve.
- Signature “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR diver’s watches introduced in 1969, also filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material.
- The watch comes with a one-piece fabric strap in forest green with a red central thread and a self-gripping fastening system, along with an additional one-piece rubber strap featuring an embossed fabric motif.
TUDOR’s Legacy with the US Navy:
For decades, the US Navy relied on TUDOR diving watches, starting in the late 1950s. These watches were famously worn by SEAL teams from 1962 until the late 1980s. They served various roles, including underwater demolition teams (UDTs), Seabees, and Navy dive school instructors. These TUDOR Submariners played a pivotal role in teaching scuba diving basics at the Underwater Swimmers School and in aiding underwater submarine maintenance at US and international submarine bases. TUDOR watches also contributed to pioneering underwater technologies across the world’s oceans.
Throughout these years, TUDOR supported the US Navy as a supplier of issued watches. TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 7928, 7016, and 7021 were “Navy-approved” diving watches. A specific supply catalog entry (under code 6645-01-068-1088) allowed supply officers to procure and issue TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner references 9411 and later 76100 to sailors or operators in need of reliable Navy-approved dive watches. This entry remained active until 2004.
A Unique Set of Specifications:
The Pelagos FXD case, initially developed in collaboration with active duty combat swimmers, adheres to precise and demanding specifications. It includes unique features not found in other TUDOR watches, such as fixed strap bars directly machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for enhanced robustness and reliability. These bars extend from the lugs, contributing to the model’s distinctive silhouette. The watch also boasts a 60-notch ergonomic rotating bezel, unidirectional with a luminescent material-filled 60-minute-graduated ceramic insert, meeting ISO standard 6425:2018 for divers’ watches.
In terms of aesthetics, the Pelagos FXD model draws inspiration from TUDOR diver’s watches historically worn by US Navy personnel from the late ’60s to the early ’80s. It features a black color scheme, square hour markers, and angular “Snowflake” hands, introduced in 1969 to enhance luminescence in low-light conditions. The unidirectional rotating bezel with a sand-blasted ceramic insert, also featuring luminescent material, completes the look. The 42mm titanium case is water-resistant up to 200 meters and boasts a satin-brushed finish to minimize light reflections.
A Fabric Strap in Pure Navy Style:
Traditionally, the US Navy often fitted TUDOR watches with fabric straps, typically one-piece straps made of black or green nylon. The two straps included with the Pelagos FXD pay homage to this military practice but with a twist. The flagship configuration features a one-piece green fabric strap with a red central thread and a self-gripping fastening system. Additionally, an embossed fabric-motif one-piece black rubber strap adds a contemporary touch to a classic look.
The one-piece fabric strap is a distinctive feature of TUDOR watches, introduced in 2010. Crafted in France by Julien Faure using 19th-century Jacquard looms, it offers exceptional manufacturing quality, durability, and comfort on the wrist. For the Pelagos FXD model, TUDOR and Julien Faure developed a highly technical strap construction, comprising a 22mm forest green nylon woven ribbon with a red central thread, a titanium “D” buckle, and a self-gripping fastening system. This strap adapts to different wrist sizes and ensures comfortable wear.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5602:
Powering the Pelagos FXD is the Manufacture Calibre MT5602, which displays hours, minutes, and seconds. This caliber is finished in line with TUDOR Manufacture Calibres’ standards. Its rotor, crafted from tungsten monobloc, features openwork and satin-brushed surfaces with sand-blasted details. The bridges and mainplate alternate between sand-blasted, polished surfaces, and laser decorations.
The construction of the Manufacture Calibre MT5602 prioritizes robustness, longevity, reliability, and precision. Its variable inertia balance is stabilized by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation. The use of a non-magnetic silicon hairspring enhances its resistance to magnetic fields. The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). It surpasses the institute’s standards, with a daily running variation of between -2 and +4 seconds when fully assembled. Notably, the power reserve of this caliber is approximately 70 hours, ensuring that the watch remains functional over weekends without winding.
TUDOR’s Divers’ Watch Legacy:
TUDOR’s history with divers’ watches dates back to 1954 with the introduction of reference 7922. Waterproof to 100 meters (330 ft), it marked the beginning of a lineage of “divers” watches. These watches have been known for their affordability, robustness, reliability, and precision—a testament to TUDOR’s tool-watch philosophy. Over seven decades, TUDOR has continuously improved its divers’ watches, earning acclaim from professionals, including elite military navies worldwide. With the launch of the first-generation Pelagos FXD in 2021, TUDOR continues its legacy alongside some of the world’s most elite naval units.
The TUDOR Manufacture:
Every TUDOR watch is meticulously assembled and rigorously tested to meet TUDOR’s superior standards at the new TUDOR Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland. Completed in 2021 after three years of construction, this state-of-the-art facility combines watchmaking expertise with advanced production management and automated testing systems. The manufacture spans over four levels, covering more than 5,500 square meters, and is connected to the neighboring Kenissi Manufacture, TUDOR’s movement production facility established in 2016. With Kenissi and a network of TUDOR-owned affiliates, the brand has gained control over the development and production of high-performance mechanical calibres, ensuring top-tier quality in every component.
The TUDOR Guarantee:
TUDOR, founded by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926, has consistently strived to create watches that are robust, durable, reliable, and precise. Based on this legacy and the exceptional quality of its watches, TUDOR offers a five-year guarantee for all its products. This guarantee does not require watch registration or periodic checks and is transferable. TUDOR also recommends servicing its watches approximately every ten years, depending on the model and usage.
TUDOR Is Born To Dare:
In 2017, TUDOR launched the “Born To Dare” campaign, reflecting the brand’s history and core values. It celebrates individuals who have achieved extraordinary feats on land, in the air, underwater, or on ice while wearing a TUDOR watch. This campaign also pays homage to Hans Wilsdorf’s vision of creating watches that can withstand extreme conditions, designed for daring lifestyles. TUDOR’s innovative approach to watchmaking has established it as an industry leader, with its innovations setting benchmarks in the field. The “Born To Dare” spirit is upheld worldwide by prominent ambassadors whose achievements exemplify a bold approach to life.
About TUDOR:
TUDOR is an acclaimed Swiss-made watch brand that offers mechanical watches characterized by sophisticated style, proven reliability, and exceptional value for money. Its origins trace back to 1926 when “The Tudor” was first registered as a brand on behalf of Rolex’s founder, Hans Wilsdorf. In 1946, the Montres TUDOR SA company was officially established to produce watches that embodied the traditional Rolex philosophy of quality at a more accessible price point. Over the years, TUDOR watches have been chosen by adventurous individuals in various domains, including land, air, water, and ice, thanks to their robustness and affordability. The TUDOR collection includes iconic lines such as Black Bay, Pelagos, 1926, and Royal. Since 2015, TUDOR has introduced models with mechanical Manufacture Calibres featuring multiple functions and superior performance.
For more information, please visit TudorWatch.com.