Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon -Tribute to Art Deco style

The single-piece editions within the newly unveiled Les Cabinotiers – Récits de Voyages collection eloquently mirror Vacheron Constantin’s expansive global footprint, with a particular focus on the Americas as a significant milestone. This territory became integral to Vacheron Constantin’s world in the early 19th century, with the commencement of diplomatic exchanges in the United States in 1832, followed by engagements in Brazil in 1835 and Mexico a decade later. The turn of the century in the U.S. witnessed a vibrant period reflecting the principles of Art Deco, a comprehensive art form that left an indelible mark. The Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon – Tribute to Art Deco style watch, adorned with the Hallmark of Geneva, is propelled by the in-house Calibre 1990, featuring a bi-axial tourbillon regulator and an instantaneous bi-retrograde hours and minutes display.

Vacheron Constantin’s association with the Americas took root early on, with the establishment of its first representative office in New York in 1832. Recognizing the United States as a key market, the Maison’s watches gained rapid success in burgeoning cities like Philadelphia and New Orleans. Over a few decades, Vacheron Constantin secured its place among the social and cultural elites, boasting a clientele that included influential figures and industrial leaders.

Several historically significant timepieces were crafted by Vacheron Constantin for American patrons. Aviation pioneers Orville and Wilbur Wright commissioned the first-of-its-kind pilot’s watch in 1890. During the same period, as a shareholder in the American Watch Case Co case manufacturer, Vacheron Constantin fulfilled orders for several thousand watches from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. The American 1921 watch, a cushion-shaped creation designed specifically for the United States, is a testament to the exuberant spirit of the Roaring Twenties—a period dominated by Art Deco aesthetics.

Art Deco, synonymous with optimism and modernity, influenced various aspects of American life, from architecture in New York to furniture, interior design, clothing, and automobiles, evolving into a comprehensive art form. This period coincided with the rise of the wristwatch as the new horological standard, marked by fanciful touches capturing the spirit of the era. The American 1921, a product of Vacheron Constantin’s creative fervor during this time, is celebrated in the Les Cabinotiers Armillary tourbillon – Tribute to Art Deco style.

The watch’s architectural design, armillary tourbillon, and openworked dial with a bi-retrograde display offer a canvas for blending aesthetics with Art Deco style codes. The Maison’s master engravers play a crucial role in this creative endeavor, reworking the bridges and plate of Calibre 1990 and embellishing the case middle with an ornate frieze extending over the lugs.

Utilizing bas-relief, hand-chasing, and guilloché techniques, the master engraver achieves a detailed and accentuated motif, creating a harmonious interplay of light and shadow. The guilloché work complements the engraving on the 18K 3N yellow gold case and the nickel-silver alloy movement. The calibre’s front features hand-guilloché in an Art Deco-inspired radiating pattern, while the black DLC surface treatment enhances the contrast with the case and bridges, reminiscent of the Art Deco combination of brass and wrought iron.

The back of the watch boasts three engraved bridges with motifs reminiscent of New York skyscraper decorations from the early 20th century. This intricate engraving, lasting a month to complete, seamlessly continues to the case middle, creating a captivating interplay of light and shade accentuated by the depth of relief. The folding clasp securing the black alligator leather strap is also engraved with Art Deco motifs.

Calibre 1990, protected by four patents, draws on technical advancements from the Les Cabinotiers Reference 57260—the world’s most complex timepiece with 57 complications. A manual-winding movement with a 58-hour power reserve, Calibre 1990 showcases an instantaneous bi-retrograde display and a bi-axial armillary tourbillon with a spherical balance-spring. The calibre’s configuration allows for a free space on the left-hand side of the dial, exclusively dedicated to the bi-axial armillary tourbillon.

The Les Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages series embodies Vacheron Constantin’s commitment to perfecting watchmaking in Geneva while embracing global influences. The series pays homage to the Maison’s founders, Jacques-Barthélémi Vacheron and François Constantin, who traversed the roads of Europe, establishing commercial relations with Central Europe, South America, Scandinavia, and Asia. This watchmaking odyssey through the world and its wonders reflects the Maison’s values, combining craftsmanship and mechanical art as expressive means.

For more information, please visit Vacheron-Constantin.com.

Charles d'Ancona Avatar